The paint pad I use in the DVD and on the job, is an 8 inch Padco Exterior Paint and Stain Pad (also known as a shake painter). Click here to find the red pad. The extension pole that I use is a 2-4 foot SHERLOCK® EXTENSION POLE (click to find pole) with the universal threads. Note, however, that I have attached a 2 inch extended adapter (That I designed) that replaces the original tip in order to attach the pad handle to the pole without having to modify the pad handle (more on the modification later--if there is enough requests). The paint pad refills can be found at the same place as the red paint pad link above. Five-in-one tools can be found at many home improvement and paint stores. There are eight-in-one and ten-in-one tools that work just fine also. The paint brush in the DVD is a PURDY 3 inch 75 MM angle tip brush. These can be found all over--but, any good brush could do. As for the caulking I used, use a good paintable caulking.

Yes. And, I would use it definitely in kitchens, bathrooms, and closets to drastically cut down, or eliminate, clunky masking. Often, when you paint a house where the client is still living there, they don't always clear kitchen counters all that well. Covering (I don't usually move their stuff due to liability reasons) their things takes time and supplies. I just did a lot of painting and touch-up in my own home--including the kitchen, and only scooted things out from the walls in order to reach behind to paint. I did no masking. Even if the counters and things are clear, the splatter problem is gone... just watch out for drips like I show in the DVD. If you still are worried about getting paint on cabinets etc., then uses a brush or do a little taping. Remember though, paint often bleeds under the edge of the tape and that relying on tape to give you a good sharp edge can be disappointing.

The interior paints (latex) that I find that work best for use with a paint pad (depending on the variables) are paints that have good flow properties. Generally, if the paint flows well off of a brush and into the pores (not to be confused with it being runny), then it may glide well off of the pad. I have been pressured to use quite a few cheap paints and find that they work my arms harder, but it still outdoes a roller and brush (timewise) in various conditions. Paints with a flat sheen (or finish) will work, but don't seem to flow as well. Latex enamel paints work good with a pad--but keep a wet edge or you will marr the finish. I find that in exterior conditions, high quality (water based acrylic) exterior paints seem to be friendly to apply also. If the paint seems to not flow as well as you like, try adding a little Floetrol--a latex paint conditioner (make sure you read the directions on the container first). I do not want to name any particular brands of paint at this point because there are so many.

A "holiday" is a missed spot or speckled areas where the paint has retreated from as it dried. A holiday means that the paint is not doing its job--it is taking a holiday. Yes, it is painter jargon. To fix a "holiday", just go over it again making sure you get the paint into the low areas--you touch it up.

The most efficient times for using a paint pad, in my opinion, is when you are doing repaints that are the same color, painting over a surface that has something with a slight sheen or better, and cutting in does not have to be precisely close--although, there are times when it can be made to work that way. I've painted about 1500 apartments (not including all the forclosure homes, private homes, and some commercial work I have done) and even with a slight color change, the pad is fast (faster with practice). As with anything, it is still work... but we are not afraid of a little work! Also, even if you are doing more custom work, cutting in with a brush and then padding can save you having to mask and tape, especially if the carpets are to be left in place. Even if the pad is used as a secondary tool, it is great for closets, bathrooms, and kitchens. The pad method is used by landlords who do their own painting on properties they own. It is used by people who still like to use a roller, but will cut in with a pad, also.

As far as the baseboards go... if the color is close to the same, you can leave a 16th to an 8th of an inch and rely on shadows and/or near color blending. If it is enough of a color change and the line has to be sharp, you may need to cut with a brush (you still didn't have to get a drop out to do it--and brushes clean easily enough. But, if the baseboards are not too porous (meaning that the paint does not soak in and is not hard to wipe off completely), take a chance doing it a little blind, and get close and risk touching the pad a little to the base. Don't forget to wipe the front edge of the pad on dry wall to get the excess paint off. You can learn to get closer by taking several attempts at cutting blind on each length of wall--getting closer and closer until you barely touch the baseboard. If you get a little paint on the trim, wipe it off. After awhile you will get more precise. If you remember from the DVD, I did not put my face down by the base trim, I just extended the pole and went along the wall. Baseboard heaters can often be cut in sharp with a pad because you can wipe off the metal clean with a damp rag fairly easy. Wipe it off immediately, the paint sets fast on the baseboard heaters if they are on.